The Grand Magal and The Baye Fall
The Grand Magal of Touba, Senegal
"Magal" means Pilgrimage
Hundreds of thousands of Senegalese make their way to the city of Touba in droves, by any means of transportation necessary, about 200 km to the northwest of Dakar.
The Grand Magal happens once a year and lasts for one day. And is a religious festival of the Mourides, the Senegalese Muslim Brotherhood, that celebrates the return from exile of Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba.
Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba Mbacke founded Mouridism. As part of Sufi Islam, Mouridism combines the teachings of Prophet Muhammad and also takes values from the Wolof culture; which is the largest ethnic group in Senegal.
The Great Mosque of Touba, Senegal. Captured during The Grand Magal Festival of Touba 2023
Walking through the entrance of The Great Mosque of Touba
How we lived in Touba
There weren't any hotels available, so people gathered in marabout housing (temporary housing structures), in the houses of relatives, or anywhere they could find to rest their heads.
Many people arrived and gathered earlier in the city, in preparation for the big day, to spend time with their friends, relatives, and others on their pilgrimage to the great city. And often stayed for several more days after the festival.
We slept on the rooftops
How many of the housing structures look around Touba
People gathering in the shade during the very heated days, spending time with each other.
Peace and sunrise. Looking towards the Great Mosque, the sounds of the chanting call out around the city.
How we ate in Touba
In front of the houses, is where the slaughtering of animals is carried out. The offerings are used to help feed the inhabitants of the houses and pilgrims nearby.
The disciples of the Mourides would feed the pilgrims on their journey by providing them with free food along the streets of Touba as a responsibility. Although there are few places to purchase food in Touba, no one goes hungry along the way.
Of what remains...
As the children stare at the camel, I wonder if the camel is thinking about whether or not it's next. Due to what is happening to its right side.
The Streets of Touba
The roads and pathways leading in the direction of the Mosque were full of people walking to and from the Great Mosque. Cars, buses, and large trucks tried to maneuver the streets that were covered with numerous amounts of kiosks and small shops that sold just about everything. Customers and Browsers scan the garments, decorative jewelry and accessories, or the local foods and other refreshments needed to keep the people moving on those hot Touba days. The streets were crowded and flowing, chaotic, colorful, and vibrant.
Orchestration of traffic.
We arrived 2 days after a major flood in Touba. Some streets still had the remnants of the flood. It was a heartfelt sight to see this young man carrying the young lady above the water for her to avoid getting soaked.
The Baye Fall
Part of the Islamic Sufi movement, the Baye Fall is a branch of the Mouride group that was created by Ahmadou Bamba’s top and most fierce disciple, Ibrahima Fall. The word “Baye” in the Wolof language, translates as “Father.” The Baye Fall are the followers of the Father Fall – Ibrahima Fall
With appearances much like the Rastafari, the Baye Fall are the Rastafarians of the Muslim faith. Visions of their good vibes, colorful patchwork clothing, artisanal neckwear, and chanting; The Baye Fall are known for their hard work and believe that hard work is more important than fasting and praying and therefore making the use of labor as a form of worship.
Circular leather neckpieces called "Ndombo" are stacked and styled with leather talismans and prayer beads.
The Baye Fall wear their hair in locks, to represent their spiritual journey and devotion to the culture and religion.
Traditional Senegalese Henna painted on the hands.
Brothers ready to go to Mosque
Senegalese Fashion during the Grand Magal
Known as the "Boubou" and "Grand Boubou," men and women wear full-bodied garments decorated with colorful patchwork and intricate stitch patterns. Also, differences in the fabric types, thickness, and luster can be seen and determined as different levels of prestige.
The children are just as fashionable as the adults and they know it!
Women often color-coordinate their accessories with their Boubou.
Matching patchwork fabric styled Boubous for groups.
Conclusion
The Grand Magal was an experience I will never forget. The people all around the Mosque and in the city of Touba, were the most welcoming people to the tune of making me feel like I was at home. I truly felt the Senegalese "Teranga" (hospitality).
That energy was everything! The knowledge I was able to gain from this experience is something I recommend to anyone and everyone wanting to travel to Senegal.
A special thanks to Niane Rasoul. I wouldn't have made it to Touba, or had been able to navigate the location as well without his help.
Me being blessed in Touba by an Elder
